When the days get shorter and the wind picks up, the flying field gets quiet. That's exactly when indoor flying starts. In a sports hall, a light EPP plane lets you fly all winter long, practise new manoeuvres and have a lot of fun with fellow pilots. And the best part: you build it yourself. In this guide, we explain step by step how to build an indoor plane and what you need to get started. As an example, we use the EPP kits from RC Factory, one of the best-known names in indoor flying.
Most indoor planes are made of EPP foam (expanded polypropylene). EPP is light, flexible and remarkably tough: where a plane made of rigid foam breaks, EPP often just bends back. That makes it ideal for learning 3D manoeuvres close to the floor and the walls.
RC Factory makes its kits from EPP sheets with the parts already printed and cut out. A typical indoor model has a wingspan of around 80 to 90 cm and weighs only 150 to 220 grams, ready to fly.
RC Factory offers dozens of indoor models, from aerobatic planes to scale biplanes. A few examples from our range:
Browse all RC Factory indoor kits in our shop. Good to know: these kits include the airframe only. You'll need to add the electronics yourself.
Tip: RC Factory also offers matching equipment sets per model, with the right motor, ESC, servos and propeller in one package. That way you're sure everything fits together. Ask us about availability, or take a look at our motor combos.
EPP is usually glued with medium CA glue (superglue) combined with an activator for a fast, strong bond. Some builders also use a flexible foam glue for joints that need to absorb impacts. Always follow the glue recommendations in the manual of your kit. You'll find everything you need under glues & fillers.
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Every RC Factory kit comes with a detailed manual, often with build videos. Read it from start to finish before you begin, and check that all parts are there. Plan your build time: RC Factory states more than 16 hours for models like the Cap 10 and Edge 580, so take your time.
Carefully remove the parts from the EPP sheets. Sand away any rough edges and bevel the hinge lines of the control surfaces, so they can move freely.
Glue the fuselage, wing and tail together according to the manual. Fit the carbon reinforcements exactly as shown: they give the light airframe its stiffness. Keep checking that everything is square: the wing must be perfectly perpendicular to the fuselage, and the stabiliser parallel to the wing. A plane that's built straight flies a lot better.
Make sure the ailerons, elevator and rudder move freely without play. A smooth, full deflection is essential for 3D flying.
Connect the servos to your receiver and centre them using your transmitter (or a servo tester) before fitting the servo arms. Then fit the control horns and pushrods. Make sure every control surface is exactly neutral when the stick is centred.
Mount the motor on the motor mount, then connect the ESC and receiver. Keep the wiring neat and light. Attach the battery with a strip of Velcro, so you can move it to adjust the balance.
Balance the plane at the centre of gravity (CG) shown in the manual by moving the battery. Then set up the control throws in your transmitter. Start with low rates and some expo for your first flights, and keep high rates for 3D manoeuvres. Always check that each control surface moves in the right direction.
Look for a sports hall or a large indoor space, and check the local rules first. Do a final check: are the controls moving in the right direction, is the battery fully charged and secure, and is the propeller tight? Start with gentle circuits to get used to the model, and build up from there. Practising on a flight simulator beforehand will help a lot.
Need help choosing a kit or the right electronics? Come by our shop in Bruges or get in touch. At Aerobertics, we're happy to help you get ready for the indoor season.